Experiences
The village, and what there is to do in it.
Over the years Neelambari has become a place people choose for what surrounds it. Arattupuzha is a village of about seven thousand people on the Karuvannur river, farming paddy and plantain — a good setting for walking out into the country around it, gentle introductions to Kerala's classical arts, cooking and eating central Kerala food, or simply keeping your own time. Yoga, Ayurveda and the kitchen — vegetarian mostly, with fish and meat when you want them — run alongside, on a long or a short stay. Almost everything worth doing here is something the village was already doing.
The village
Where the drums came from
The village takes its name from the river bath that ends the temple festival: aratt, the bathing, and puzha, the river. The Sastha temple sits by the water at the foot of a small hill, and the festival it holds is thought to be more than fourteen hundred years old — the oldest pooram in Kerala, and the one the others were modelled on.
A little further out is Peruvanam, and this is the part most visitors do not expect. Melam — the percussion orchestra that is the sound of every temple festival in Kerala — took its present form here. So did the conventions for caparisoning elephants that are now used across the state. Percussion artists from these few square kilometres are still sought after everywhere in Kerala. It is an unremarkable-looking place that a large part of the state's festival culture came out of.
What we arrange
Some of it here, most of it out there
None of this is on a schedule. Tell us what interests you and we will work out which day it suits.
A walk, first thing
Out through the paddy while it is still cool, past the fish farms and whatever work has already begun — water let into a field, plantain cut and carried, cattle led out, children on their way to school. Nothing along the route is arranged, though a toddy tapper can be, if you would like to watch him climb.
The village centre
A canoe down the Karuvannur, the banks and the village going by slowly on either side, then out of the boat for a short walk to the Arattupuzha temple. Only worshippers may go inside, but the ground outside rises above the compound wall and the temple and its architecture are clear from there. With luck we can see props and decorations used in the famous temple festival here.
An introduction to the art forms
Sitting down with the artists rather than watching from a distance: what the makeup means, what the hands are doing, how a story is sometimes told just with the eyes.
A performance
Kathakali or Koodiyattam in the Koothambalam (temple theatre), with an introduction to the form and the story beforehand. Most stagings are shortened to an hour, more or less. But they are not watered down for tourists.
Painting, close up
A session with artists who work in Kathakali and Koodiyattam makeup, kalamezhuthu floor drawings and temple murals — what the colours mean and why they are fixed.
Temples nearby
Arattupuzha Sastha, Peruvanam Mahadeva, Vadakkumnathan in Thrissur and others between three and forty kilometres out. Worth knowing before you plan a day around one: several admit only Hindus.
Further afield
Thrissur itself, the Athirappilly waterfalls, Chimmony wildlife reserve, Guruvayur, and Muziris, where the Romans traded and which is considered the cradle of Kerala history. All comfortable day trips.
Ayurveda and yoga
Treatments in the spa and sessions in the yoga hall or the corner by the pond, arranged around what you need. More on the Stay page.
The calendar
Festivals, if your dates happen to line up
Thrissur is not only the cultural capital of Kerala, it is also the temple festival capital of the state. The festivals mostly run from November to May, and most are within an easy drive of Neelambari.
Arattupuzha Pooram
Considered the mother of all temple festivals in Kerala, Arattupuzha Pooram is one of the oldest Hindu festivals. The event spans more than a week and happens right in our backyard, walking distance from Neelambari.
Deshavilakku
A different kind of festival, associated with the Sabarimala pilgrimage. It involves no elephants, and is no less enchanting for that.
Thrissur Pooram
Thirteen kilometres away. Caparisoned elephants, parasols, and panchavadyam (the five-instrument temple ensemble) through the night.
Onam
The most important festival in Kerala, celebrated across the state. Ten days of flower arrangements, boat races, tugs of war and, of course, the Onam sadya (feast).
Dates move with the Malayalam calendar and are not pegged to the Roman one, so ask us in advance if you are planning your visit around one.
Coming to see it
Most of this needs a day's notice, not a booking
Tell us what you would like to see when you enquire, or once you are here. Performances and the painting session need a little more warning than the rest.